Latest in Fashion Garments

Latest in Fashion Garments

Saturday, December 29, 2007

Quality Standards by Some Apparel Manufacturers

H&M Quality tests
All garments in H&M's collections go through a number of quality and security tests. Today we have our own laboratories in the biggest production offices, as well as in the main office in Stockholm, where the tests are performed. Before the goods are delivered to our stores they have been tested several times. Shrinkage, wringing, color fastness and dry rubbing are examples of things that we check. Extra high demands are put on children's clothes where no sharp objects or flammable materials may occur. Here you can read more about the important tests and our work with securing the quality of our products.
Safety for our smallest customer
The aim is clear. H&M strives to have the safest children clothing on the market.
At H&M we have a high standard of product safety on our baby and children’s products. That’s why for example all our outerwear has detachable hoods, to reduce the risk of accidental entrapment by the hood during children´s play. That’s also why we perform tests on buttons and other attached decorations during the whole production.
We always follow the selling country that has the strictest safety requirements and also the European standard for cords and drawstrings on children’s clothing intended for children up to age 14.
Due to H&M’s strict chemical restrictions, baby and children’s clothing are gentle to sensitive skin and do not need to be washed before being worn for the first time.
Zipper test
Here we test the durability of the zipper.
Flammability tests
The flammability of the fabrics are tested using strict restriction limits.
Chemical tests
A number of tests are performed with special care taken to substances that can provoke skin irritation, allergies or cancer.
Button test
With a special machine we control that the buttons on all baby and children's clothes are attached safely.
Measurement test
The seams and measure of the garment is controlled, both before and after washing.
Nickel test
Here we make sure that buttons, zippers, jewellery and other metal details do not contain nickel.
Pilling test
The garment is tested to measure the appearance of pilling and abrasion.
PH-test
We make sure that the PH-value is neither too high nor too low. This is done to avoid skin irritation.
PVC-test
From January 1 2002 none of H&M's garments contain the plastic material polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Tests are performed to make sure this is followed.
Salt and chlorine-bleaching test
All swim wear are tested to make sure that their colours do not change or fade.
Washing test
Garments are tested to make sure that shrinkage, wringing and colour fastness are within H&M's limits. Washing tests are made several times during the production of the clothes.


JCPENNY
JCPenney owns three test laboratories located in Hong Kong, Singapore, and our main laboratory is located in Carrollton, Texas. These laboratories are equipped to test raw materials and finished products.
The supplier must submit samples of fabrics that will be used in production. Fabrics are tested for a variety of standards using industry accepted A.S.T.M. (American Society of Testing and Materials) and A.A.T.C.C. (American Association of Textile Colorist and Chemist) standards.
Also suppliers are required to submit production samples of finished products for testing. In addition, field inspectors will visit factories and randomly choose samples from the actual production. These samples will be submitted for testing. The products submitted must meet all JCPenney test requirements.
Physical Testing: All strength and durability tests are conducted in this area under standard atmospheric conditions of 70 degrees, 65% relative humidity. Standard atmospheric conditions are maintained to ensure the accurate correlation of test data between JCPenney laboratories and other laboratories worldwide.
The strength of a knit fabric is being tested in photo A.
The circular frame holds the specimen in place, reducing the stretch in the fabric. To determine strength of the fabric, a diaphragm located under the frame is inflated until the stress causes the fabric to rupture.
The strength of a woven fabric is being tested in photo B.
This apparatus holds yarns and pulls the fabric in opposing directions until the stress causes the yarns to break.
The JCPenney Stafford Super Shirt is made with “super durable buttons”. To test this claim, buttons are tested for durability using the “button basher” in photo C. This test simulates the stress buttons receive when shirts are pressed at a commercial laundry facility

Textile Wet Testing: In photo A, apparel and soft home furnishings are washed and dried or dry-cleaned to ensure that JCPenney merchandise will not fade or change color, stain other items in the wash load, shrink, stretch out of shape, or otherwise deteriorate.

Will the garment still fit after laundering? Will the garment look as good after a few rounds in the washer? Will the color change when exposed to detergents and bleach? Will dry cleaning harm the fabric in any way? We use household washers and dryers and a commercial dry cleaner to test these parameters. In photo B, test results are being evaluated to either establish or confirm the cleaning instructions on our
care labels.

Color fastness Testing: Retention of color for all products sold at JCPenney is the focus of the Colorfastness lab. If you have ever worn a new pair of dark jeans and ended up with blue hands, you have performed a “crocking test”. The dye from the jeans rubbed off onto your hands. Photo A illustrates how the color from the outer shirt transferred, or “crocked”, onto the white shirt beneath.

In addition to the crocking test, we conduct a large number
of colorfastness tests, such as:
• Colorfastness to light
• Colorfastness to laundering
• Colorfastness to chlorine and non-chlorine bleaches
• Colorfastness of swimwear to perspiration, pool water
and sea water
• Colorfastness of rugs and carpeting

All colorfastness tests are conducted according to industry standards. In photo B, ratings are accessed using the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Standard Gray Scales for staining or shade change. Rating is conducted under standardized lighting conditions.

Appearance Rating Room: JCPenney is America’s number one seller of wrinkle free and performance dress shirts. To ensure the ultimate in customer satisfaction, our shirts are laundered multiple times
and evaluated in a specially designed rating room. The lighting used for viewing, and the controlled color of this room, allow for precise visual contrast evaluations to be made. Industry photographic and plastic replica standards are used
to evaluate the garment for fabric smoothness, seam smoothness, crease retention and the appearance
of the center placket, pocket, collar, and cuff.

Chemistry Laboratory: Chemistry testing involves extracting substances and analyzing the substances by using chemical analysis techniques. Test results are then compared with industry and federal standards for compliance. The two primary tests performed in the Chemistry Laboratory are Fiber Identification and pH Testing of finished fabrics.

Fibers are identified by using the high-powered microscope shown in photo A. The percentage of each type of fiber in the fabrics is then determined by using wet chemistry tests.

pH testing of processed and bleached apparel, as shown in photo B, is conducted to ensure finishes are properly set. Finishes used in processing jeans and other garments can cause skin irritation if not neutralized. pH levels that are either too high or too low can also affect the life of a garment.

Flammability Testing: The JCPenney Flammability Laboratory is equipped to perform testing on general wearing apparel, children’s sleepwear, carpets and rugs. All flammability testing is performed following federally mandated guidelines. JCPenney adheres to standards established by the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC):

General Wearing Apparel - The ease of ignition, as well as the speed and intensity of the flame, is tested to determine if the fabric is suitable for use.

Children’s Sleepwear - The flammability standard for children’s sleepwear is very stringent. The fabric is tested initially, then the seams, trims, embroidery, and screen prints; and finally, the longest seam of the garment. All three stages must meet specific criteria before the garment is approved.

Photo A shows the test chamber for general wearing apparel. Photo B shows a fabric specimen burning in the testing chamber.

Carpets and Rugs - Testing is conducted in a receptacle called a “burning cube” as shown in photo C. A small tablet is placed in the center of the sample and ignited, simulating
a smoldering cigarette being dropped onto the carpet.
The sample is allowed to burn until it self-extinguishes.
The burned sample is then evaluated against CPSC standards.

Soft Home Testing: JCPenney evaluates textile products used in home furnishings such as adult, children, and infant bedding, ready made window coverings, rugs and mats, towels and other bath textiles, table top items, kitchen linens, and upholstery fabrics. The Soft Home Team ensures all merchandise is manufactured to JCPenney Product Performance Standards, product claims, and all applicable safety requirements. In addition to performance testing, merchandise is evaluated for fit and appearance from the customer’s view point. In photo A, bedding sheets are being evaluated for fit, shrinkage, and appearance on the mattress.

In addition to performance, all infant bedding and accessories are evaluated for compliance with the Standard Consumer Safety Performance Specification for Infant Bedding and Related Accessories, and the Consumer Product Safety Act for sharp points, small parts, and heavy metal content. In photo B, the Evaluator is measuring the tie on the bumper guard to ensure the tie is not longer than the length allowed to prevent strangulation.

JCPenney carries a wide variety of textile window coverings that must meet our requirements for colorfastness to light, color permanence, strength, shrinkage, and appearance after laundering. In photo C, window panels are hung on rods and then visually evaluated to ensure they drape properly before and after washing. The window panel on the right shrank excessively while in the dryer and is being measured to determine the percent of shrinkage.

Towels are tested for shrinkage, colorfastness, and absorbency as shown in photo D. Absorbency is determined by many factors including the type of cotton, number of yarns, loops per inch and their length, yarn twist, yarn size, dyes, and finishes. Fabric softeners can reduce the absorbency of fabrics; therefore, towels are washed prior to testing to ensure accuracy. The face and back of towels are tested separately to determine the percent of water absorbed by each side.
Polo-shirt Quality Features
3 ply flat knit collar
Removable label
Horn style buttons
Fused placket with interlining for neatness & strength
Rib cuff to stop the cuffs stretching
Reactive Dyed (100% cotton) Double Dyed (Polyester / Cotton) To ensure longer lasting brighter colours wash after wash
Double top stitched hem
Herringbone taping
Double top stitched shoulder for neatness & strength
Double top stitched sleeve for neatness & strength
Side splits for casual styling
Herringbone tapping for neatness & styling detail
A Guide to Polo Shirt Quality
When buying polo shirts, 'quality' always ranks highly as a factor for consideration. Naturally, buyers want to be sure that the goods they are purchasing meet and exceed their quality expectations, as well as the expectations of their customers. Buying poor quality clothing only serves to damage reputations, sometimes jeopardizing the very existence of the businesses involved. That's certainly something that everyone can do without!
But how can buyers who are unfamiliar with the elements that constitute a good quality polo shirt be confident in their quality assessment of the product they're about to purchase? Moreover, how can wholesale buyers in this situation relate the difference in quality between a good quality polo shirt and a bad quality polo shirt to their customers?
8 Tips to help buyers assess polo shirt quality
1. Yarn Type. The type of yarn is a major determinant of quality. The longer the fibres used in the yarn the higher the quality of the fabric. Combing removes shorter fibres and produces a stronger more uniform yarn from which the fabric is produced.
2. Fabric Weight - The heavier the fabric the more raw materials have been used in producing the garment and accordingly the higher the cost of the polo-shirts. A polo-shirt with a fabric weight of 220 grams per square meter will cost more to produce than an equivalent polo-shirt with a fabric weight of 180 grams per square meter.
3. Fabric Dyeing. The method of dyeing is critical to ensure a polo-shirt is colourfast and retains its colour wash after wash. With 100% cotton garments reactive dyeing will give better performance on 100% cotton than direct dyeing. With polyester/cotton blends the fabric needs to be double dyed so that dyestuff is applied to both the cotton and polyester fibres.
4. Manufacture - Shoulders & Arms - Double top stitching along the shoulder seam of a polo shirt is a sure sign of quality. More than just a basic stitched shoulder seam, a double top stitch ensures neatness of the upper polo shirt area as well as strength and durability. Again, double top stitching along the sleeve seam where it connects with the main body of the polo shirt offers neatness around the sleeve and underarm area, as well as providing strength and durability to the sleeve. Look out too for polo shirts with ribbed cuffs. Ribbed cuffs prevent the sleeve from stretching and sagging. This keeps the polo shirt looking smart and just like new around the arms, even after considerable wear.
5. Manufacture - Polo Shirt Front - The buttoned upper area of a polo shirt should have good quality buttons. They need to be hard-wearing and also add to the stylish appeal of the polo shirt. Horn style buttons are an excellent choice of button that satisfies both criteria. Additionally, the highest quality polo shirts have an interlined fused placket at the base of the button row. This provides the buttoned neck area with added robustness.
6. Manufacture - Collar - A good quality polo shirt will have a 3-ply flat knit collar. 3-ply is superior to 2-ply and gives the collar strength and durability, helping to prevent it from 'folding up' when worn or after washing. Herringbone taping in the collar is a good quality sign too, as the taping helps the collar to maintain its shape.
7. Manufacture - Hem - In the hem area, look out for polo shirts with a double top stitching around the hem. Just as with the shoulder and arm seams, the double top stitch keeps the seam neat and prevents the threads from unravelling or working loose in this area. Also, look out for herringbone taping on the waist seam. Split sides are also very fashionable at the waist.
8. Label - Finally, polo shirts that have a removable label instead of a permanent tag on the neck are popular amongst buyers. A removable tag negates the problems of neck irritation that a permanent tag can cause.

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

thanks for info you provide hare......

FAPORT International said...

Hey great site!! thanks for information..

Unknown said...

Quality Standards is very important in each and every organization.

Regards.
Alpha Clothing Company
www.mensclothingindia.com

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