Latest in Fashion Garments

Latest in Fashion Garments

Saturday, December 29, 2007

Cost of Quality Garments


In recent years organizations have been focusing much attention on quality management. There are many different aspects of quality management but this tutorial focuses on the cost of quality. The costs associated with quality are divided into two categories: costs due to poor quality and costs associated with improving quality. Prevention costs and appraisal costs are costs associated with improving quality, while failure costs result from poor quality. Management must understand these costs to create quality improvement strategy. An organization’s main goal is to survive and maintain high quality goods or services, with a comprehensive understanding of the costs related to quality this goal can be achieved.
Costs are defined as the summation of costs over the life of a product. Customers prefer products or services with a high quality and reasonable price. To ensure that customers will receive a product or service that is worth the money they will spend firms should spend on prevention and appraisal costs. Prevention costs are associated with preventing defects and imperfections from occurring. Consider the Johnson and Johnson (J&J) safety seals that appear on all of their products with the message, " if this safety seal is open do not use." This is a preventive measure because in the overall analysis it is least costly to purchase the safety seals in production than undergo a possible cyanide scare. The focus of a prevention cost is to assure quality and minimize or avoid the likelihood of an event with an adverse impact on the company goods, services or daily operations. This also includes the cost of establishing a quality system. A quality system should include the following three elements: training, process engineering, and quality planning. Quality planning is establishing a production process in conformance with
design specification procedures, and designing of the proper test procedures and equipment. Consider establishing training programs for employees to keep them efficient on emerging technologies, such as updated computer languages and programs. (Foster, 105)
Appraisal costs are direct costs of measuring quality. In this case, quality is defined as the conformance to customer expectations. This includes: lab testing, inspection, test equipment and materials, costs associated with assessment for ISO 9000 or other quality award assessments. (Foster, 105) A common example of appraisal costs is the expenses from inspections. An organization should establish an inspection of their products and incoming goods from a supplier before they reach the customer. This is also known as acceptance sampling, a technique used to verify that products meet quality standards.
Failure Costs are separated into two different categories: internal and external. Internal failure costs are expenses incurred from online failure. This includes cost of troubleshooting, loss of production resulting from idle time either from manpower or during the production process. External failure costs are associated with product failure after the completion of the production process. (Foster, 106) An excellent example of external failure costs is the J&J cyanide scare. The company incurred expenses in response to the customer fears of tampering with a purchased J&J product. However, J&J managed to survive the incident, in part because of their method of corrective action.
Understanding the cost of quality is extremely important in establishing a quality management strategy. After defining the three major costs of quality and discussing their application we can examine how they affect an organization. The more an organization
invests in preventive measures the more they are able to reduce failure costs. Furthermore, an investment in quality improvement benefits the company image, performance and growth. This is basically summed up by the Ludvall-Juran quality cost model, which applies the law of diminishing returns to these costs (See Figure 1). The model shows that prevention and appraisal costs have a direct relationship with quality conformance, meaning they increase as quality conformance increases. Thus, quality conformance should have an inverse relationship with failure costs - meaning as quality conformance increases failure costs should decrease. Understanding these relationships and applying the cost of quality process enables an organization to decrease failure costs and assure that their products and services continue to meet customer expectations. Some companies that have achieved this goal include Neiman-Marcus, Rolex, and Lexus. (Foster, 107)
Phillip Crosby states that quality is free. As discussed in this paper, the costs related to achieving quality are traded off between the prevention and appraisal costs and the failure costs. Therefore, the prevention and appraisal costs resulting from improved quality, allow an organization to minimize or be free of the failure costs resulting from poor quality. In summation, understanding cost of quality helps companies to develop quality conformance as a useful strategic business tool that improves their products, services and image. This leverage is vital in achieving the goals and mission of a successful organization.

Quality Standards by Some Apparel Manufacturers

H&M Quality tests
All garments in H&M's collections go through a number of quality and security tests. Today we have our own laboratories in the biggest production offices, as well as in the main office in Stockholm, where the tests are performed. Before the goods are delivered to our stores they have been tested several times. Shrinkage, wringing, color fastness and dry rubbing are examples of things that we check. Extra high demands are put on children's clothes where no sharp objects or flammable materials may occur. Here you can read more about the important tests and our work with securing the quality of our products.
Safety for our smallest customer
The aim is clear. H&M strives to have the safest children clothing on the market.
At H&M we have a high standard of product safety on our baby and children’s products. That’s why for example all our outerwear has detachable hoods, to reduce the risk of accidental entrapment by the hood during children´s play. That’s also why we perform tests on buttons and other attached decorations during the whole production.
We always follow the selling country that has the strictest safety requirements and also the European standard for cords and drawstrings on children’s clothing intended for children up to age 14.
Due to H&M’s strict chemical restrictions, baby and children’s clothing are gentle to sensitive skin and do not need to be washed before being worn for the first time.
Zipper test
Here we test the durability of the zipper.
Flammability tests
The flammability of the fabrics are tested using strict restriction limits.
Chemical tests
A number of tests are performed with special care taken to substances that can provoke skin irritation, allergies or cancer.
Button test
With a special machine we control that the buttons on all baby and children's clothes are attached safely.
Measurement test
The seams and measure of the garment is controlled, both before and after washing.
Nickel test
Here we make sure that buttons, zippers, jewellery and other metal details do not contain nickel.
Pilling test
The garment is tested to measure the appearance of pilling and abrasion.
PH-test
We make sure that the PH-value is neither too high nor too low. This is done to avoid skin irritation.
PVC-test
From January 1 2002 none of H&M's garments contain the plastic material polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Tests are performed to make sure this is followed.
Salt and chlorine-bleaching test
All swim wear are tested to make sure that their colours do not change or fade.
Washing test
Garments are tested to make sure that shrinkage, wringing and colour fastness are within H&M's limits. Washing tests are made several times during the production of the clothes.


JCPENNY
JCPenney owns three test laboratories located in Hong Kong, Singapore, and our main laboratory is located in Carrollton, Texas. These laboratories are equipped to test raw materials and finished products.
The supplier must submit samples of fabrics that will be used in production. Fabrics are tested for a variety of standards using industry accepted A.S.T.M. (American Society of Testing and Materials) and A.A.T.C.C. (American Association of Textile Colorist and Chemist) standards.
Also suppliers are required to submit production samples of finished products for testing. In addition, field inspectors will visit factories and randomly choose samples from the actual production. These samples will be submitted for testing. The products submitted must meet all JCPenney test requirements.
Physical Testing: All strength and durability tests are conducted in this area under standard atmospheric conditions of 70 degrees, 65% relative humidity. Standard atmospheric conditions are maintained to ensure the accurate correlation of test data between JCPenney laboratories and other laboratories worldwide.
The strength of a knit fabric is being tested in photo A.
The circular frame holds the specimen in place, reducing the stretch in the fabric. To determine strength of the fabric, a diaphragm located under the frame is inflated until the stress causes the fabric to rupture.
The strength of a woven fabric is being tested in photo B.
This apparatus holds yarns and pulls the fabric in opposing directions until the stress causes the yarns to break.
The JCPenney Stafford Super Shirt is made with “super durable buttons”. To test this claim, buttons are tested for durability using the “button basher” in photo C. This test simulates the stress buttons receive when shirts are pressed at a commercial laundry facility

Textile Wet Testing: In photo A, apparel and soft home furnishings are washed and dried or dry-cleaned to ensure that JCPenney merchandise will not fade or change color, stain other items in the wash load, shrink, stretch out of shape, or otherwise deteriorate.

Will the garment still fit after laundering? Will the garment look as good after a few rounds in the washer? Will the color change when exposed to detergents and bleach? Will dry cleaning harm the fabric in any way? We use household washers and dryers and a commercial dry cleaner to test these parameters. In photo B, test results are being evaluated to either establish or confirm the cleaning instructions on our
care labels.

Color fastness Testing: Retention of color for all products sold at JCPenney is the focus of the Colorfastness lab. If you have ever worn a new pair of dark jeans and ended up with blue hands, you have performed a “crocking test”. The dye from the jeans rubbed off onto your hands. Photo A illustrates how the color from the outer shirt transferred, or “crocked”, onto the white shirt beneath.

In addition to the crocking test, we conduct a large number
of colorfastness tests, such as:
• Colorfastness to light
• Colorfastness to laundering
• Colorfastness to chlorine and non-chlorine bleaches
• Colorfastness of swimwear to perspiration, pool water
and sea water
• Colorfastness of rugs and carpeting

All colorfastness tests are conducted according to industry standards. In photo B, ratings are accessed using the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Standard Gray Scales for staining or shade change. Rating is conducted under standardized lighting conditions.

Appearance Rating Room: JCPenney is America’s number one seller of wrinkle free and performance dress shirts. To ensure the ultimate in customer satisfaction, our shirts are laundered multiple times
and evaluated in a specially designed rating room. The lighting used for viewing, and the controlled color of this room, allow for precise visual contrast evaluations to be made. Industry photographic and plastic replica standards are used
to evaluate the garment for fabric smoothness, seam smoothness, crease retention and the appearance
of the center placket, pocket, collar, and cuff.

Chemistry Laboratory: Chemistry testing involves extracting substances and analyzing the substances by using chemical analysis techniques. Test results are then compared with industry and federal standards for compliance. The two primary tests performed in the Chemistry Laboratory are Fiber Identification and pH Testing of finished fabrics.

Fibers are identified by using the high-powered microscope shown in photo A. The percentage of each type of fiber in the fabrics is then determined by using wet chemistry tests.

pH testing of processed and bleached apparel, as shown in photo B, is conducted to ensure finishes are properly set. Finishes used in processing jeans and other garments can cause skin irritation if not neutralized. pH levels that are either too high or too low can also affect the life of a garment.

Flammability Testing: The JCPenney Flammability Laboratory is equipped to perform testing on general wearing apparel, children’s sleepwear, carpets and rugs. All flammability testing is performed following federally mandated guidelines. JCPenney adheres to standards established by the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC):

General Wearing Apparel - The ease of ignition, as well as the speed and intensity of the flame, is tested to determine if the fabric is suitable for use.

Children’s Sleepwear - The flammability standard for children’s sleepwear is very stringent. The fabric is tested initially, then the seams, trims, embroidery, and screen prints; and finally, the longest seam of the garment. All three stages must meet specific criteria before the garment is approved.

Photo A shows the test chamber for general wearing apparel. Photo B shows a fabric specimen burning in the testing chamber.

Carpets and Rugs - Testing is conducted in a receptacle called a “burning cube” as shown in photo C. A small tablet is placed in the center of the sample and ignited, simulating
a smoldering cigarette being dropped onto the carpet.
The sample is allowed to burn until it self-extinguishes.
The burned sample is then evaluated against CPSC standards.

Soft Home Testing: JCPenney evaluates textile products used in home furnishings such as adult, children, and infant bedding, ready made window coverings, rugs and mats, towels and other bath textiles, table top items, kitchen linens, and upholstery fabrics. The Soft Home Team ensures all merchandise is manufactured to JCPenney Product Performance Standards, product claims, and all applicable safety requirements. In addition to performance testing, merchandise is evaluated for fit and appearance from the customer’s view point. In photo A, bedding sheets are being evaluated for fit, shrinkage, and appearance on the mattress.

In addition to performance, all infant bedding and accessories are evaluated for compliance with the Standard Consumer Safety Performance Specification for Infant Bedding and Related Accessories, and the Consumer Product Safety Act for sharp points, small parts, and heavy metal content. In photo B, the Evaluator is measuring the tie on the bumper guard to ensure the tie is not longer than the length allowed to prevent strangulation.

JCPenney carries a wide variety of textile window coverings that must meet our requirements for colorfastness to light, color permanence, strength, shrinkage, and appearance after laundering. In photo C, window panels are hung on rods and then visually evaluated to ensure they drape properly before and after washing. The window panel on the right shrank excessively while in the dryer and is being measured to determine the percent of shrinkage.

Towels are tested for shrinkage, colorfastness, and absorbency as shown in photo D. Absorbency is determined by many factors including the type of cotton, number of yarns, loops per inch and their length, yarn twist, yarn size, dyes, and finishes. Fabric softeners can reduce the absorbency of fabrics; therefore, towels are washed prior to testing to ensure accuracy. The face and back of towels are tested separately to determine the percent of water absorbed by each side.
Polo-shirt Quality Features
3 ply flat knit collar
Removable label
Horn style buttons
Fused placket with interlining for neatness & strength
Rib cuff to stop the cuffs stretching
Reactive Dyed (100% cotton) Double Dyed (Polyester / Cotton) To ensure longer lasting brighter colours wash after wash
Double top stitched hem
Herringbone taping
Double top stitched shoulder for neatness & strength
Double top stitched sleeve for neatness & strength
Side splits for casual styling
Herringbone tapping for neatness & styling detail
A Guide to Polo Shirt Quality
When buying polo shirts, 'quality' always ranks highly as a factor for consideration. Naturally, buyers want to be sure that the goods they are purchasing meet and exceed their quality expectations, as well as the expectations of their customers. Buying poor quality clothing only serves to damage reputations, sometimes jeopardizing the very existence of the businesses involved. That's certainly something that everyone can do without!
But how can buyers who are unfamiliar with the elements that constitute a good quality polo shirt be confident in their quality assessment of the product they're about to purchase? Moreover, how can wholesale buyers in this situation relate the difference in quality between a good quality polo shirt and a bad quality polo shirt to their customers?
8 Tips to help buyers assess polo shirt quality
1. Yarn Type. The type of yarn is a major determinant of quality. The longer the fibres used in the yarn the higher the quality of the fabric. Combing removes shorter fibres and produces a stronger more uniform yarn from which the fabric is produced.
2. Fabric Weight - The heavier the fabric the more raw materials have been used in producing the garment and accordingly the higher the cost of the polo-shirts. A polo-shirt with a fabric weight of 220 grams per square meter will cost more to produce than an equivalent polo-shirt with a fabric weight of 180 grams per square meter.
3. Fabric Dyeing. The method of dyeing is critical to ensure a polo-shirt is colourfast and retains its colour wash after wash. With 100% cotton garments reactive dyeing will give better performance on 100% cotton than direct dyeing. With polyester/cotton blends the fabric needs to be double dyed so that dyestuff is applied to both the cotton and polyester fibres.
4. Manufacture - Shoulders & Arms - Double top stitching along the shoulder seam of a polo shirt is a sure sign of quality. More than just a basic stitched shoulder seam, a double top stitch ensures neatness of the upper polo shirt area as well as strength and durability. Again, double top stitching along the sleeve seam where it connects with the main body of the polo shirt offers neatness around the sleeve and underarm area, as well as providing strength and durability to the sleeve. Look out too for polo shirts with ribbed cuffs. Ribbed cuffs prevent the sleeve from stretching and sagging. This keeps the polo shirt looking smart and just like new around the arms, even after considerable wear.
5. Manufacture - Polo Shirt Front - The buttoned upper area of a polo shirt should have good quality buttons. They need to be hard-wearing and also add to the stylish appeal of the polo shirt. Horn style buttons are an excellent choice of button that satisfies both criteria. Additionally, the highest quality polo shirts have an interlined fused placket at the base of the button row. This provides the buttoned neck area with added robustness.
6. Manufacture - Collar - A good quality polo shirt will have a 3-ply flat knit collar. 3-ply is superior to 2-ply and gives the collar strength and durability, helping to prevent it from 'folding up' when worn or after washing. Herringbone taping in the collar is a good quality sign too, as the taping helps the collar to maintain its shape.
7. Manufacture - Hem - In the hem area, look out for polo shirts with a double top stitching around the hem. Just as with the shoulder and arm seams, the double top stitch keeps the seam neat and prevents the threads from unravelling or working loose in this area. Also, look out for herringbone taping on the waist seam. Split sides are also very fashionable at the waist.
8. Label - Finally, polo shirts that have a removable label instead of a permanent tag on the neck are popular amongst buyers. A removable tag negates the problems of neck irritation that a permanent tag can cause.

Quality Standards by Some Apparel Manufacturers

H&M Quality tests
All garments in H&M's collections go through a number of quality and security tests. Today we have our own laboratories in the biggest production offices, as well as in the main office in Stockholm, where the tests are performed. Before the goods are delivered to our stores they have been tested several times. Shrinkage, wringing, color fastness and dry rubbing are examples of things that we check. Extra high demands are put on children's clothes where no sharp objects or flammable materials may occur. Here you can read more about the important tests and our work with securing the quality of our products.
Safety for our smallest customer
The aim is clear. H&M strives to have the safest children clothing on the market.
At H&M we have a high standard of product safety on our baby and children’s products. That’s why for example all our outerwear has detachable hoods, to reduce the risk of accidental entrapment by the hood during children´s play. That’s also why we perform tests on buttons and other attached decorations during the whole production.
We always follow the selling country that has the strictest safety requirements and also the European standard for cords and drawstrings on children’s clothing intended for children up to age 14.
Due to H&M’s strict chemical restrictions, baby and children’s clothing are gentle to sensitive skin and do not need to be washed before being worn for the first time.
Zipper test
Here we test the durability of the zipper.
Flammability tests
The flammability of the fabrics are tested using strict restriction limits.
Chemical tests
A number of tests are performed with special care taken to substances that can provoke skin irritation, allergies or cancer.
Button test
With a special machine we control that the buttons on all baby and children's clothes are attached safely.
Measurement test
The seams and measure of the garment is controlled, both before and after washing.
Nickel test
Here we make sure that buttons, zippers, jewellery and other metal details do not contain nickel.
Pilling test
The garment is tested to measure the appearance of pilling and abrasion.
PH-test
We make sure that the PH-value is neither too high nor too low. This is done to avoid skin irritation.
PVC-test
From January 1 2002 none of H&M's garments contain the plastic material polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Tests are performed to make sure this is followed.
Salt and chlorine-bleaching test
All swim wear are tested to make sure that their colours do not change or fade.
Washing test
Garments are tested to make sure that shrinkage, wringing and colour fastness are within H&M's limits. Washing tests are made several times during the production of the clothes.


JCPENNY
JCPenney owns three test laboratories located in Hong Kong, Singapore, and our main laboratory is located in Carrollton, Texas. These laboratories are equipped to test raw materials and finished products.
The supplier must submit samples of fabrics that will be used in production. Fabrics are tested for a variety of standards using industry accepted A.S.T.M. (American Society of Testing and Materials) and A.A.T.C.C. (American Association of Textile Colorist and Chemist) standards.
Also suppliers are required to submit production samples of finished products for testing. In addition, field inspectors will visit factories and randomly choose samples from the actual production. These samples will be submitted for testing. The products submitted must meet all JCPenney test requirements.
Physical Testing: All strength and durability tests are conducted in this area under standard atmospheric conditions of 70 degrees, 65% relative humidity. Standard atmospheric conditions are maintained to ensure the accurate correlation of test data between JCPenney laboratories and other laboratories worldwide.
The strength of a knit fabric is being tested in photo A.
The circular frame holds the specimen in place, reducing the stretch in the fabric. To determine strength of the fabric, a diaphragm located under the frame is inflated until the stress causes the fabric to rupture.
The strength of a woven fabric is being tested in photo B.
This apparatus holds yarns and pulls the fabric in opposing directions until the stress causes the yarns to break.
The JCPenney Stafford Super Shirt is made with “super durable buttons”. To test this claim, buttons are tested for durability using the “button basher” in photo C. This test simulates the stress buttons receive when shirts are pressed at a commercial laundry facility

Textile Wet Testing: In photo A, apparel and soft home furnishings are washed and dried or dry-cleaned to ensure that JCPenney merchandise will not fade or change color, stain other items in the wash load, shrink, stretch out of shape, or otherwise deteriorate.

Will the garment still fit after laundering? Will the garment look as good after a few rounds in the washer? Will the color change when exposed to detergents and bleach? Will dry cleaning harm the fabric in any way? We use household washers and dryers and a commercial dry cleaner to test these parameters. In photo B, test results are being evaluated to either establish or confirm the cleaning instructions on our
care labels.

Color fastness Testing: Retention of color for all products sold at JCPenney is the focus of the Colorfastness lab. If you have ever worn a new pair of dark jeans and ended up with blue hands, you have performed a “crocking test”. The dye from the jeans rubbed off onto your hands. Photo A illustrates how the color from the outer shirt transferred, or “crocked”, onto the white shirt beneath.

In addition to the crocking test, we conduct a large number
of colorfastness tests, such as:
• Colorfastness to light
• Colorfastness to laundering
• Colorfastness to chlorine and non-chlorine bleaches
• Colorfastness of swimwear to perspiration, pool water
and sea water
• Colorfastness of rugs and carpeting

All colorfastness tests are conducted according to industry standards. In photo B, ratings are accessed using the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Standard Gray Scales for staining or shade change. Rating is conducted under standardized lighting conditions.

Appearance Rating Room: JCPenney is America’s number one seller of wrinkle free and performance dress shirts. To ensure the ultimate in customer satisfaction, our shirts are laundered multiple times
and evaluated in a specially designed rating room. The lighting used for viewing, and the controlled color of this room, allow for precise visual contrast evaluations to be made. Industry photographic and plastic replica standards are used
to evaluate the garment for fabric smoothness, seam smoothness, crease retention and the appearance
of the center placket, pocket, collar, and cuff.

Chemistry Laboratory: Chemistry testing involves extracting substances and analyzing the substances by using chemical analysis techniques. Test results are then compared with industry and federal standards for compliance. The two primary tests performed in the Chemistry Laboratory are Fiber Identification and pH Testing of finished fabrics.

Fibers are identified by using the high-powered microscope shown in photo A. The percentage of each type of fiber in the fabrics is then determined by using wet chemistry tests.

pH testing of processed and bleached apparel, as shown in photo B, is conducted to ensure finishes are properly set. Finishes used in processing jeans and other garments can cause skin irritation if not neutralized. pH levels that are either too high or too low can also affect the life of a garment.

Flammability Testing: The JCPenney Flammability Laboratory is equipped to perform testing on general wearing apparel, children’s sleepwear, carpets and rugs. All flammability testing is performed following federally mandated guidelines. JCPenney adheres to standards established by the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC):

General Wearing Apparel - The ease of ignition, as well as the speed and intensity of the flame, is tested to determine if the fabric is suitable for use.

Children’s Sleepwear - The flammability standard for children’s sleepwear is very stringent. The fabric is tested initially, then the seams, trims, embroidery, and screen prints; and finally, the longest seam of the garment. All three stages must meet specific criteria before the garment is approved.

Photo A shows the test chamber for general wearing apparel. Photo B shows a fabric specimen burning in the testing chamber.

Carpets and Rugs - Testing is conducted in a receptacle called a “burning cube” as shown in photo C. A small tablet is placed in the center of the sample and ignited, simulating
a smoldering cigarette being dropped onto the carpet.
The sample is allowed to burn until it self-extinguishes.
The burned sample is then evaluated against CPSC standards.

Soft Home Testing: JCPenney evaluates textile products used in home furnishings such as adult, children, and infant bedding, ready made window coverings, rugs and mats, towels and other bath textiles, table top items, kitchen linens, and upholstery fabrics. The Soft Home Team ensures all merchandise is manufactured to JCPenney Product Performance Standards, product claims, and all applicable safety requirements. In addition to performance testing, merchandise is evaluated for fit and appearance from the customer’s view point. In photo A, bedding sheets are being evaluated for fit, shrinkage, and appearance on the mattress.

In addition to performance, all infant bedding and accessories are evaluated for compliance with the Standard Consumer Safety Performance Specification for Infant Bedding and Related Accessories, and the Consumer Product Safety Act for sharp points, small parts, and heavy metal content. In photo B, the Evaluator is measuring the tie on the bumper guard to ensure the tie is not longer than the length allowed to prevent strangulation.

JCPenney carries a wide variety of textile window coverings that must meet our requirements for colorfastness to light, color permanence, strength, shrinkage, and appearance after laundering. In photo C, window panels are hung on rods and then visually evaluated to ensure they drape properly before and after washing. The window panel on the right shrank excessively while in the dryer and is being measured to determine the percent of shrinkage.

Towels are tested for shrinkage, colorfastness, and absorbency as shown in photo D. Absorbency is determined by many factors including the type of cotton, number of yarns, loops per inch and their length, yarn twist, yarn size, dyes, and finishes. Fabric softeners can reduce the absorbency of fabrics; therefore, towels are washed prior to testing to ensure accuracy. The face and back of towels are tested separately to determine the percent of water absorbed by each side.
Polo-shirt Quality Features
3 ply flat knit collar
Removable label
Horn style buttons
Fused placket with interlining for neatness & strength
Rib cuff to stop the cuffs stretching
Reactive Dyed (100% cotton) Double Dyed (Polyester / Cotton) To ensure longer lasting brighter colours wash after wash
Double top stitched hem
Herringbone taping
Double top stitched shoulder for neatness & strength
Double top stitched sleeve for neatness & strength
Side splits for casual styling
Herringbone tapping for neatness & styling detail
A Guide to Polo Shirt Quality
When buying polo shirts, 'quality' always ranks highly as a factor for consideration. Naturally, buyers want to be sure that the goods they are purchasing meet and exceed their quality expectations, as well as the expectations of their customers. Buying poor quality clothing only serves to damage reputations, sometimes jeopardizing the very existence of the businesses involved. That's certainly something that everyone can do without!
But how can buyers who are unfamiliar with the elements that constitute a good quality polo shirt be confident in their quality assessment of the product they're about to purchase? Moreover, how can wholesale buyers in this situation relate the difference in quality between a good quality polo shirt and a bad quality polo shirt to their customers?
8 Tips to help buyers assess polo shirt quality
1. Yarn Type. The type of yarn is a major determinant of quality. The longer the fibres used in the yarn the higher the quality of the fabric. Combing removes shorter fibres and produces a stronger more uniform yarn from which the fabric is produced.
2. Fabric Weight - The heavier the fabric the more raw materials have been used in producing the garment and accordingly the higher the cost of the polo-shirts. A polo-shirt with a fabric weight of 220 grams per square meter will cost more to produce than an equivalent polo-shirt with a fabric weight of 180 grams per square meter.
3. Fabric Dyeing. The method of dyeing is critical to ensure a polo-shirt is colourfast and retains its colour wash after wash. With 100% cotton garments reactive dyeing will give better performance on 100% cotton than direct dyeing. With polyester/cotton blends the fabric needs to be double dyed so that dyestuff is applied to both the cotton and polyester fibres.
4. Manufacture - Shoulders & Arms - Double top stitching along the shoulder seam of a polo shirt is a sure sign of quality. More than just a basic stitched shoulder seam, a double top stitch ensures neatness of the upper polo shirt area as well as strength and durability. Again, double top stitching along the sleeve seam where it connects with the main body of the polo shirt offers neatness around the sleeve and underarm area, as well as providing strength and durability to the sleeve. Look out too for polo shirts with ribbed cuffs. Ribbed cuffs prevent the sleeve from stretching and sagging. This keeps the polo shirt looking smart and just like new around the arms, even after considerable wear.
5. Manufacture - Polo Shirt Front - The buttoned upper area of a polo shirt should have good quality buttons. They need to be hard-wearing and also add to the stylish appeal of the polo shirt. Horn style buttons are an excellent choice of button that satisfies both criteria. Additionally, the highest quality polo shirts have an interlined fused placket at the base of the button row. This provides the buttoned neck area with added robustness.
6. Manufacture - Collar - A good quality polo shirt will have a 3-ply flat knit collar. 3-ply is superior to 2-ply and gives the collar strength and durability, helping to prevent it from 'folding up' when worn or after washing. Herringbone taping in the collar is a good quality sign too, as the taping helps the collar to maintain its shape.
7. Manufacture - Hem - In the hem area, look out for polo shirts with a double top stitching around the hem. Just as with the shoulder and arm seams, the double top stitch keeps the seam neat and prevents the threads from unravelling or working loose in this area. Also, look out for herringbone taping on the waist seam. Split sides are also very fashionable at the waist.
8. Label - Finally, polo shirts that have a removable label instead of a permanent tag on the neck are popular amongst buyers. A removable tag negates the problems of neck irritation that a permanent tag can cause.

Garments Standards

ISO
ISO is a network of the national standards institutes of 157 countries, on the basis of one member per country, with a Central Secretariat in Geneva, Switzerland, that coordinates the system.
ISO is a non-governmental organization: its members are not, as is the case in the United Nations system, delegations of national governments. Nevertheless, ISO occupies a special position between the public and private sectors. This is because, on the one hand, many of its member institutes are part of the governmental structure of their countries, or are mandated by their government. On the other hand, other members have their roots uniquely in the private sector, having been set up by national partnerships of industry associations.
Therefore, ISO is able to act as a bridging organization in which a consensus can be reached on solutions that meet both the requirements of business and the broader needs of society, such as the needs of stakeholder groups like consumers and users.
Because "International Organization for Standardization" would have different acronyms in different languages ("IOS" in English, "OIN" in French for Organization international de normalization), its founders decided to give it also a short, all-purpose name. They chose "ISO", derived from the Greek isos, meaning "equal". Whatever the country, whatever the language, the short form of the organization's name is always ISO.
ISO’s orientation is guided by a Strategic Plan approved for a five-year period by the ISO members. The ISO members, ultimate representatives of ISO for their own countries, are divided in three categories: member bodies (full members), correspondent members and subscriber members. Only member bodies have the right to vote.
The General Assembly, which meets annually, consists of a meeting of the Principal Officers of ISO and delegates nominated by the member bodies. Correspondent members and subscriber members may attend as observers. The Principal Officers include the President who is a prominent figure in standardization or in business, the Vice President (policy), the Vice President (technical management), the Treasurer, and the Secretary-General. The General Assembly’s agenda includes, inter alia, actions related to the ISO annual report, the Strategic Plan with financial implications, and the Treasurer’s annual financial status report on the ISO Central Secretariat.
The ISO Statutes stipulate that, while the General Assembly is the ultimate authority of the Organization, most of the governance functions of ISO are performed by the Council in accordance with the policy laid down by the member bodies. The Council meets twice a year and its membership is rotated to ensure that it is representative of ISO's membership. All member bodies are eligible for appointment/election to the Council. Under the Council, there are a number of policy development committees to provide strategic guidance for the standards’ development work on cross-sectoral aspects. They are: CASCO (conformity assessment); COPOLCO (consumer policy), and DEVCO (developing country matters). The policy development committees are open to all member bodies and correspondent members.
The Technical Management Board (TMB) reports to Council, and is itself responsible for the overall management of the technical work, including for a number of strategic and technical advisory groups. Member bodies are eligible for appointment/election to the TMB in accordance with a set of criteria established by the Council.
Operations are managed by the Secretary-General (chief executive officer) who reports to the Council. The Secretary-General is based at the ISO Central Secretariat in Geneva (Switzerland) with a compact staff which provides administrative and technical support to the ISO members, coordinates the decentralized standards' development programme, and publishes the output. The ISO Central Secretariat also acts as the secretariat of the governing bodies, policy development committees and their subsidiary bodies.
Website: http://www.iso.org

ASTM International (ASTM)
is an international standards developing organization that develops and publishes voluntary technical standards for a wide range of materials, products, systems, and services.
ASTM predates other standards organizations such as BSI (1901), DIN (1917) and AFNOR (1926), but differs from these in that it is not a national standards body, that role being taken in the USA by ANSI. However, ASTM has a dominant role among standards developers in the USA, and claims to be the world's largest developer of standards. Using a consensus process, ASTM supports thousands of volunteer technical committees, which draw their members from around the world and collectively develop and maintain more than 12,000 standards. The Annual Book of ASTM Standards consists of 77 volumes.
The standards produced by ASTM International fall into four categories:
the Standard Specification, that defines the requirements to be satisfied by subject of the standard.
the Standard Test Method, that defines the way a test is performed. The result of the test may be used to assess compliance with a Specification.
the Standard Practice, that defines a sequence of operations that, unlike a test, does not produce a result.
the Terminology Standard, that provides agreed definitions of terms used in the other standards.
The quality of the standard test methods is such that they are frequently used world-wide, even in places where ASTM specifications are not used.
Association for the Assessment of Environmentally Friendly Textiles
Since the early the 1990s, the Oeko-Tex Test Association has been involved in varying concepts for the textile supply chain aimed at the stipulation of human-ecological requirements for textile products, and, through this the development of solutions for improvements in production ecology. The tests for harmful substances in textiles specified in the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 were first introduced in 1992 and these met with great success. As a logical progression of this ecological concept, the “Oeko-Tex International – Association for the Assessment of Environmentally Friendly Textiles” introduced the Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 for production ecology in 1995.The Oeko-Tex Standard 100plus has made it possible to create consumer awareness of achievements in production as well as human ecology. The Oeko-Tex Standard 100plus builds on the level of awareness of the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 label


ITC
Since 1964, the International Trade Centre has helped the business sectors of developing and transition economies to develop exports. The goal is to help these countries to achieve sustainable human development through exports, with an emphasis on competitiveness. Our daily contact with business executives and export strategy-makers over the course of four decades has given us a unique perspective and experience. ITC are known as a practical agency that has embraced reform, encourages partnerships and fosters innovation.
Globalization has brought trade to everyone’s backyard. Yet only a handful of developing countries have managed to seize the potential of trade for development. In today’s world, our mandate is more relevant than ever. Today, trade is recognized as an avenue for development, and many organizations support trade as a part of their work. Yet ITC remains the only international organization focused solely on trade development for developing and transition economies.
ITC remain specialized, focused, flexible and client-oriented. To achieve this mandate, ITC work in partnership with national, regional and international bodies around the world. Our ultimate clients are export‑oriented firms, especially small and medium-sized enterprises in developing countries. Our aim is to deliver relevant, world-class trade development services, in partnership with others, so that we serve as a catalyst to help countries create better jobs, and raise income, for their people.
ITC shares the social development goals of the United Nations (UN), the World Trade Organization (WTO), the Bretton Woods institutions (the World Bank and the International Monetary Fund) and, more generally, of the international development community. ITC contributes to the UN’s Millennium Development Goals, specifically to the goals relating to fostering global partnership for development, reducing poverty, promoting gender equality and ensuring environmental sustainability. We advise business on making the most of an open trading system; attend to the specific trade development needs of least developed countries (LDCs); help countries apply the benefits of new technologies; provide support to women entrepreneurs; and promote environmentally-friendly export initiatives.
ITC’s trade development approach reflects its emphasis on being a practical agency. We are a technical cooperation organization that builds national capacity through trade-related technical assistance programmes. This approach has been acknowledged in WTO’s Doha Ministerial Declaration and in the Monterrey Consensus (the outcome of the International Conference on Financing for Development).
Complementarity
ITC is the joint technical cooperation agency of the UN Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD) and WTO for business aspects of trade development. The three Geneva-based organizations play a complementary role in trade development, and cooperation between our organizations is close:
While UNCTAD and WTO work principally with governments, ITC works with the business community. How does this work in practice? Let us take, as an example, technical assistance to developing countries for trade negotiations. UNCTAD trains negotiators and helps governments develop and harmonize negotiating positions. WTO helps countries prepare to be WTO members, disseminates its Agreements and assists in legal compliance with the Agreements. ITC clarifies the business implications of multilateral trade agreements and assists business in understanding, shaping and benefiting from trade rules.


WTO
the World Trade Organization (WTO) is the only international organization dealing with the global rules of trade between nations. Its main function is to ensure that trade flows as smoothly, predictably and freely as possible.
The WTO’s overriding objective is to help trade flow smoothly, freely, fairly and predictably.
It does this by:
Administering trade agreements
Acting as a forum for trade negotiations
Settling trade disputes
Reviewing national trade policies
Assisting developing countries in trade policy issues, through technical assistance and training programmes
Cooperating with other international organizations
Structure
The WTO has nearly 150 members, accounting for over 97% of world trade. Around 30 others are negotiating membership.
Decisions are made by the entire membership. This is typically by consensus. A majority vote is also possible but it has never been used in the WTO, and was extremely rare under the WTO’s predecessor, GATT. The WTO’s agreements have been ratified in all members’ parliaments.


ANAB
The ANSI-ASQ National Accreditation Board is the U.S. accreditation body for management systems. ANAB accredits certification bodies (CBs) for ISO 9001 quality management systems (QMS) and ISO 14001 environmental management systems (EMS), as well as a number of industry-specific requirements.ANAB is a member of the International Accreditation Forum and a signatory of the IAF multilateral cooperative arrangements (MLAs) for QMS and EMS. Through the IAF MLAs and the Multilateral Cooperative Accreditation Arrangement, ANAB cooperates with other accreditation bodies around the world to provide value to its accredited CBs and their clients, ensuring that accredited certificates are recognized nationally and internationally. The global conformity assessment system ensures confidence and reduces risk for customers engaging in trade worldwide.
SAI (Social Accountability International)
SAI is an international non-profit human rights organization dedicated to the ethical treatment of workers around the world. SAI’s social standard, called SA8000, functions as a highly effective and expedient system for delivering improved social performance to businesses and their supply chain facilities. The SA8000 solution is designed to ensure compliance with the highest ethical sourcing standards by integrating management tools that serve the needs of workers and businesses alike.


OHSAS 18000
OHSAS 18000 is an international occupational health and safety management system specification. It comprises two parts, 18001 and 18002 and embraces a number of other publications.
For the record, the following other documents, amongst others, were used in the creation process:
BS8800:1996 Guide to occupational health and safety management systems
DNV Standard for Certification of Occupational Health and Safety Management Systems(OHSMS):1997
Technical Report NPR 5001: 1997 Guide to an occupational health and safety management system
Draft LRQA SMS 8800 Health & safety management systems assessment criteria
SGS & ISMOL ISA 2000:1997 Requirements for Safety and Health Management Systems
BVQI SafetyCert: Occupational Safety and Health Management Standard
Draft AS/NZ 4801 Occupational health and safety management systems Specification with guidance for use
Draft BSI PAS 088 Occupational health and safety management systems
UNE 81900 series of pre-standards on the Prevention of occupational risks
Draft NSAI SR 320 Recommendation for an Occupational Health and Safety (OH and S) Management System
OHSAS 18001 is an Occupation Health and Safety Assessment Series for health and safety management systems. It is intended to help an organizations to control occupational health and safety risks. It was devloped in response to widespread demand for a recognized standard against which to be certified and assessed.

BISFA (Bureau International pour la Standardization des Fibers Artificielles)

This international association of man-made fiber producers was founded in 1928 under the French name of Bureau International pour la Standardization des Fibers Artificielles, hence the abbreviation BISFA. The head office of the association is Avenue E. Van Nieuwenhuyse, 4 B-1160 Brussels Tel. (00322) 676 74 55 / fax (00322) 676 74 54.

Objectives
BISFA establishes terminology of man-made fibers for the continuous improvement of intercompany, customer and consumer communications. BISFA aims to establish technical rules for fibers and yarns for delivery conditions which have to be applied for each type of man-made fiber and which are mandatory for all members of the association. Therefore BISFA establishes internationally agreed procedures and test methods for different categories of man-made fibers and sets general rules for settling of disputes between seller and buyer of man-made fibers.
BISFA provides an international voice for the man-made fibre industry in these matters and promotes the adoption of its methods and terminology by standardization organizations such as CEN and ISO and by the European Commission responsible for textile labeling and the customs authorities.
Membership of the association is open to any producer of man-made fibers. Its more than 60 members are located all over Europe; and some members are from outside Europe (e.g. in Brazil). Each producer who is a member, or applies for membership, undertakes to abide by and support the decisions of BISFA. The organization is financed by contributions from members in proportion to their production.
Structure and Operation:
The General Assembly of BISFA members elects the President and endorses the decisions taken by the Standards for Fibers & Textiles Committee. This Committee defines the general objectives, sets an annual work programme and controls the progress of the working groups active on specific, limited objectives (such as revising an existing methods booklet or developing new methods). The Committee exchanges information on national standardization activities. The secretariat in Brussels provides the infrastructure. The working language of BISFA is English.
This Standardization Committee closely collaborates with the equivalent bodies of the Comité International de la Rayonne et des Fibers Synthétiques (C.I.R.F.S.) with its office at the same location.

DRESSES FOR WEDDING

Wedding is the most important occasion in the human life. Immediately after the engagementsget fixed and exchange of engagement rings takes place, the would-be bride and the bride-groom gets ontheir toes to plan out and finalize the accessories, the wedding suites and gowns they intend to wear on thewedding day.Quite a few couples also refer the fashion magazines to get the best latestdesigns. Even the designs or the patterns high-lighted in the Cinema createsubstantial impact on the younger generations today. The brides oftenfollow the cinematic trends and wishes to dress up in the identical mannerfor drawing society’s attention.Especially the girls start dreaming of their future life-partner and thewedding ceremony celebrations etc since her very childhood. When theactual time comes she tries to shape up everything to make her dreamscome true. But the fashions go on changing and so does the reality.Anyway one wants to make wedding day a very special in his or her life andhence try to get the best possible things within his reach.Proper selection of the wedding dress is perhaps the most importantdecision which invites special attention and lot more exercise. The dressshould be highly impressive and sensibly designed according to personalcomplexion and physic structure. The rich always has the option of hiringrenowned fashion designers of the society and thus get the exclusive dressdone for the occasion to give her the most elegant look with almostdistinguished personality for the special day.As per the family traditions, the wedding dresses entirely depend on the communal rituals and rites onebelongs to. Some orthodox family members however do not allow any deviations in the traditionalformalities. The reformation sometimes takes place by convincing the elder family members with justifiedand factual arguments.The Christians, The Hindus, The Muslims and The Shikhs have special wedding dresses to be worn by allmeans. So far possible the social leaders or the religious preachers do not allow the brides to go beyond thespecified ritual boundaries.

West Wedding dresses

In the developed western countries it has been observed thatthe brides wear the white gowns duly stitched with extra longcloth as per the Christian customs probably set by the holychurch authorities or may be prescribed in the holy Biblebased on specific religious rituals. However the quality ofcloths varying in terms of its raw materials depending onone’s monetary budgets and likings. The design of thiswedding gown is such that re-use of it or wearing it very oftenis rather not possible in the practical life.Yet people go crazy spending a lot for such clothes. Thericher class of the society is always keen to show off theirstatus and hence generally plan out the marriages of theirchildren in the best possible way. Wedding is the occasionrequiring the huge budgets nowadays. The wedding dressstands second in terms of cost.


Old Western Wedding Dresses

The girls sometimes wish to go off-bit and choose the Old-fashioned dress or just the replica of theprincess’s dress believing that it enhances the love and affection towards the life-partner. It is not necessarythat wedding gowns have to be white only instead one can choose any suitable color shades. The maincriteria should be the proper stitching and perfect fitting of the dress by all means.


Dresses That Only Rock

The smart small sleeves came in to fashions by 1930s. For the fat women there wasthe special design with cloth was stitched by gathering more at the center/waist line.During early 50s the rock and roll dresses consisting of wide skirts allowing bare-waist look slim. The skirtswere having satin laces and also beautifully embroidered. Also the trend of multi-colored cloths stitched tohigh light the different body parts were in fashion during the 50s. The ladies with good breast-line used to gofor such dresses especially.The vintage 50s with a button front and a wing collar is a summer dress with a lot of colors that is designedfor the oversized girls. The curls are gathered on the front below the waistline giving it an elegant look.Green super party dress fitted with a gathered bodice a full shirt, a tight curve hugging front and with a bowof streamers at the back was also considered in fashion during the period.The black sequins designed for the symmetrical physic woman made the most appearance during the1960s. The diva vintage evening gown of the 70s is high necked, with long tight sleeves and without stretch.It can have silver black sequins in a geometric pattern.Reputed stores selling high value special occasion clothes generally put their stocks of lesser demandcreations on SALE once in a year. Here one can get the comparatively good bargain for the master-piece ofelegantly designed wedding suits etc. if your wedding have been scheduled during any such time, youshould definitely take a chance to attend such SALE exhibits.


Indian Style

Indian philosophy claims that the wedding is considered as extremely important religious and socialoccasions. The bride and bride-groom are the main characters playing the most vital roles. We can call themthe hero and the heroin for the day. Female relatives spend hours in dressing and adorning the bride so thatshe shines out amongst the crowd, thus ensuring her good luck and future prosperity.While Wedding procedures vary from province to province and stateto state in India, so does the preparations and the dressing styles.Union of India has almost 25-26 states each differs in terms of theculture and traditions. These can be distinguished in three majorpatterns: Sarees, Lahanga Choli with matching scarf and the SalwarKameez. The Hindus brides generally prefer wearing the sarees butalso the younger generation in today’s time likes wearing lahangacholi with decorative yet matching scarf. Whereas the muslim and theshikh brides widely wear salwar kameez made from the silk or alikematerial duly embroidered with zari work etc.The majority of the states direct the brides to be dressed withtraditional sarees only. The styles and the pattern of wearing suchsarees however defer or vary. Saree generally made fromcomparatively costlier cloth with heavy embroidery work, mirror workor even semi-precious stones of various colors, matching or contrastetc fixed on it make it exclusively designed for the brides. The colorcombinations or the raw material of the wedding sarees aredepending on your personal budgets. In general the cost of awedding saree starts from anything around INR 5000.However one can get the extra ordinary piece or the specially designed and developed unique piece by anyrenowned fashion designers may cost you in tons. Sarees designed with threads made of real gold or silverfor embroidery better known in colloquial languages as the Zari work is in great demand forever. The most ofthe brides choose such sarees for their wedding functions. This is the most expensive piece of cloth ifcompared with any other wedding dresses.There are quite a few designers practicing in India nowadays who takes in to account every aspect of thebride’s personality while preparing or suggesting the exclusive wedding dress. This includes the bride’s skincomplexion and her physical structure in main. They also design the related accessories almost made readyto use at the given extra cost. Such accessories are said to have shoes, cosmetic-kits, wallets and purses,the accessories for hair-do or the foreheads, the biceps in general.Even the most famous dress designers like Mr. Manish Malhotra or Mrs. Ritu Berry or Ms. Nita Lulla or Mr.Rohit Bal etc. of India who generally design and stitch clothes and costumes for the Indian Cinema actorshave in recent times come out with the specially designed Bridal Collection Range. However, availing theservices or the products developed by the designers of such repute may cost you extra ordinary amount. Butsimultaneously they make you exclusively dressed bride in all the true sense. The dress and the accessoriesmade for you by the designer saves your time and unnecessary running after to put the things together.The elegantly looking wedding dress requires being comfortable too in wearing and handling during theentire marriage functions. Many times it is noticed that the bride striving for looking beautiful selects such awedding costume that becomes unbearable on her part to handle while performing the ritual formalities. Thematching accessories are also counted of equal importance.All these put together adds quite a substantial weight on the bride’s body which she carries practically thewhole day. The season or the weather in which the wedding is taking place is required to be worked out. Asper the Indian cultures the couple remains in front of the holy fire place to vow for their humble association.Such formality is known as the Saat Phere. With the uncomfortable wedding clothes the couple literallysweats even during winters.


Dresses FOR Informal

The wedding occasion is considered as the grand celebration by both ofthe parties, the bride side as well as the bride-groom side. Thecelebrations last as much as 5 days in some cases when the rich partiesare joining together. The days before the scheduled marriage dayconsists of Mehandi application, the dancing and light music parties andeven alike entertaining events are organized by the either or the bothparties in association with the close family members, relatives andfriends of the society. The wedding person gets different dressesdesigned and made for the specific day and thus try to create theremarkable entity temporarily.Lahanga and Choli: Lahanga and choli are being adopted replacingtraditional sarees are often found in the higher society people or thericher people. Such lahangas made out from the fine clothes with itsmatching choli duly having extra ordinary zari or other traditional orsemi-traditional work done on it. This is again the costly affair. In theancient times our grand parents used to believe that only the RED or theGREEN and the WHITE colors were auspicious and accepted the mostfor any holy festivals or rituals like wedding.So in other words the brides were directed to choose their wedding saree or costumes made out of anypreferred clothe but had to be of any of the three stipulated colors. The civilized society currently thinks ofgoing for even brighter color shades with floral or geometrical design patterns. The most preferred colors bythe reputed designers and even the young brides nowadays include purple, orange, blue, pink or deepgreen or the combination of multi-colors as and when the stipulated design demands.It is universally believed that the fashion always repeats or rather the old is gold. The younger generationstoday prefers wearing their mother’s saree or even the grand mother’s saree duly redesigned with variousadditions and alterations. Even the extra ornamental accessories are fitted like precious stones, zari, mirrorsor elegant satin or silk boarders with heavily embroidered on it. All these together makes the old piece ofsaree exclusively comparable with the modern saree yet look rather more attractive. With such sarees thesemi-traditional accessories looks charming and adds to the glory of the bride.Fresh floral accessories especially made for the Indian bride’s hairstyle decoration has an extra ordinaryimpact in terms of look.The Hindu brides usually have to put on two different sarees one over the other, of which one is from herparent’s side and the other ritually given by her in-law’s side. This very sarees are of quite importance whileattending the wedding functions of the close family members. It adds to the glory of the lady making her thecentre of attraction.The wedding saree has to be well preserved because as per the ritual formalities the lady when dies herbody has to be covered with the very saree on the way to her funeral-pyre.

Sunday, December 2, 2007

Technical Info on T-Shirt Printing

Flocking attracts due to its delightful and silky appearance. Today flocking is used every where including tshirts, sports clubs and leisure wear, car glove boxes, floor coverings and on many other products.
Flocking process
The flocking method covers applying short monofilament fibers, normally nylon, rayon or polyester right away on a substrate that has been formerly layered with an adhesive. So, by flock we mean short-cut textile fibers. For making flocking on textiles, generally we apply flock lengths of 0.5 or 1.0 mm of viscose or polyamide (Nylon). The most used sizes for polyamide are 3.3 dtex/0.5 mm and 6.7dtex/1.0 mm, and for viscose 3.3 dtex/0.5 mm and 5.6 dtx/1.0 mm. An enormously soft touch is achieved with 3.3 dtex/1.0 mm, but this flock is not effective as wear-resistant as the other sizes as described above. Furthermore, flocking with this flock occasionally makes troubles for the strength of the fiber in proportion to its length, is obviously low-grade and may decrease the flock’s siftability. The value dtex points out the weight in grams of one individual fiber being 10 km long. So 3.3 dtex means that one fiber, 10 km long, has a weight of 3.3 g. Both types of fibers are presented with light-fast, washable and considered against bleeding. The washing capability of polyamide is superior to that of viscose, since polyamide absorbs a maximum of 6 percent humidity against 13 percent in viscose.
Because of the humidity, the fiber swells up faintly which of course decreases its tight embedding in the glue. For the flocking of door mats a longer and harder flock Nylon 22 dtex/2.0 mm is used. In the production of carpets the same type of flock is used. This thicker fiber has very hard-wearing and extremely abrasion resistant properties.
Adhesives
Adhesives create most favorable effect on the quality of flocking. They make the link between the flock and the substrate. They are preferred to be soft, flexible and wash-proof. Today acrylate based dispersions are significantly applied for special application, like waterproof jackets or other coated fabrics; solutions can be applied as well.
Dispersion glues are distinguished between low and high temperature curing glues. At room temperature curing within two to five days, the low temperature glue dries. This denotes, after
this time has passed the garment can be washed. A fixing agent has to be applied for curing. It is critical to understand the producer’s instructions concerning the mixing ratio and blend the
fixing agent homogeneously into the glue. With a temperature between 120 and 140 degree Celsius, high temperature curing glue needs 5 - 10 minutes fixing time. It has to be stressed that drying and curing is achieved in to two stages. In the first stage the glue has to get dry, i.e., the water included in the glue has to evaporate. During this time, by virtue of physical law, the temperature does not go over 100 degrees Celsius. Then only 120 or 140 degree Celsius is achieved. The drying process is provided by concentrated air circulation with combination of fresh air. If a drying oven performs only with circulating air then the air humidity will be raised to its peak limit without any further drying outcome, here the air cannot absorb further humidity. Hence, healthy air circulation with an appropriate share of fresh air has to be obtainable. Dispersion glues are eco-friendly, the stencils and utensils are washed out with water. In case of water-resistant surfaces solutions should be applied, normally a polyurethane-based two-component system is used. Fastnesses are superior, just like those achieved with dispersions.
Printing Screens
The adhesive is used by screen printing. Normally, we apply a screen mesh prepared by polyester as it absorbs only less water and does not covered by the dispersion glue and in cleaning. Screen meshes of 24 T to 40 T are applied (standing for 24 to 40 threads per cm²) as the adhesive layer is comparatively thick. In against ordinary screen printing these meshes are proved to be relatively rough, but the glues are paste like up to thixotropic, and an enough amount has to be used on the substrates. It is essential that the contours or
lines are not extremely fine. The rough mesh would make saw tooth appearance, and, as not sufficient glue could be used, the flock would not restrain very well. Lines and dots in the design are kept at a minimum width of 1.5 mm. The needed quantity of adhesive is not only decided by the screen mesh, but also by the toughness and shape of the squeegees. Soft squeegees (60 to 70°shore) with a rounded edge and a square edge have showed to be most excellent. The squeegee should extend beyond the design by at least 20 to 30 mm.
Operation Method
The adhesive is fixing to the printing screen. The first squeegee stroke should be achieved with high pressure so the adhesive can some extent enter in to the fabric. Two to four strokes with the curved edge should crushed in an adequate amount of glue by the screen. And, in the final stroke, with the pointed edge, the surface of the screen should be washed out by applying as little pressure as needed. The outcome is a silky surface and an adhesive layer of circa 0.1 to 0.2 mm achieved after the pulling up of screen. After eliminating the screen the adhesive is replenish with the curved edge to evade desiccation of the screen. The adhesive can be imprinted with contact or small off-contact distance in textile flocking. The off-contact distance should be kept slight higher so the material edges will not get compressed in coated fabrics, paper, or plastic materials. Flocking goes after straight away subsequent to adhesive application.
This is significant, for, if intense time delivers between adhesive utilization and flocking, the adhesive might obtain a film, maintaining the flock fibers from entering. Flocking is achieved simply by electrostatics, the fibers are charged with high tension and fly, relating to the lines of force, vertically to the counter pole. They will get discharged and go back to the flocking machine if they do not locate adhesive there. When they are been linked with the adhesive, they will fix there vertically and are set in. As long as the adhesive stays wet the flocked surface must not be contacted to not press the fibers in placing upright.
The flock is not exactly dyed relating to the color fastnesses mentioned before, but it also experiences a particular cure which provides it a particular electrical conductivity permitting it to take up and give off loads rapidly. For one thing, this conductivity composes of the preparation’s own conductivity, but also of the comparative air humidity in their atmosphere. This denotes that the comparative air humidity in the workroom also affects the flock’s motion in the electrical field. The ideal relative air humidity ranges between 55 and 65 percent. The flock makes so-called “whiskers” or “beards”, and, if the humidity is too high, the flock’s siftabiliy is poor and it tends to become lumpy, and it has happened if the air is too dry. Especially in winter when outside temperatures are very low, it often happens that the comparatively air humidity in the work-room is only 30 - 35 percent. An adapted humidifier will be helpful. If the air is too dry the “open” time of the adhesive decreases and the danger of getting a film raises.
Machines and Equipment
In majority situations the adhesive is used manually. It is applied by the printing screen with a hand squeegee. It is recommending the use of an automatic screen printer in case of larger batches. Their benefit is that the squeegee pressure stays constant as pre-adjusted.
Adhesive utilized are promising either with a table printer, or if possible, with a stationary device on a palette. Perfectly, the printing stencil is swivelling so the T-shirt or sports jacket may be effortlessly applied and detached after adhesive application. Subsequently the parts to be flocked are put on a worktable. A regular table enclosed by a metal plate which is attached with the ground socket of the flocking machine via a ground cable is used. A particular flock table has lateral walls to keep the flock from straying. The top provided with the outline of a grid so the surplus flock drops into a funnel underneath and from there into a flock hopper. Hand flocking units cover a high-tension generator and the working utensil, called applicator. The flock is spread out into the applicator whose bottom is linked to high tension. It is put near by a screen. When shaking the applicator a little during the high tension, it is turned on and the flock spurts into the object to be flocked following the electrical field lines, and is inserted vertically in the glue. The high tension produced by the different generators ranges between 70.000 to100.000 volt, whereas, the amperage resides within the safe range.
The RF 500 flocking machine permits automatic flocking in combination with a carousel printing table. The RF 500 covers the high-tension generator, the control unit and the flocking unit with a circular flock container and rotating brush. The rotating speed of the brush, as well as the dosing time, the intensity of high tension, and the duration of high tension, they all can be set separately. After adhesive treatment, the garment put on the palette of the rotating table and has been shifted under the flocking station; the functions are being achieved by a foot pedal. High tension and flock feeding are started. According to the size of the design and the flock’s ability, the flock is fed for 5 to 15 seconds while hightension is turned on. After treatment of this period, the feeding made closed, while the high tension stays on for about 5 seconds to permit the surplus flock, which is still shifting in the electrical field and to get it also fixed in the glue. After stoppage the high tension, the carousel continues to shifting and the working process
starts with a new phase. To transform flock colors the flock hopper with the dosing brush can be simply detached and washed. For effective production it is suggested to apply an independent flock hopper for each flock color, or, at least, use independent hoppers for light and dark colors. This decreases machine standstill periods when shifting flock colors.
The garment is detached after flocking and the main part of the excess flock is removed before it is put into a tray cart for drying. As described earlier, drying is achievable at room temperature or in a drying oven or channel. After drying, the garment should experience a final washing treatment by heavy shaking, beating or vacuuming, or most capably, particularly in a T-shirt cleaning device. An extremely robust exhauster automatically appeals to the shirt. With brushes on top and bottom of the placed slot the surface gets brushed completely because of a special powerful air guiding system pneumatic vibration of the fabric is effected, comparable to a flag flapping in the wind. The surplus flock is vacuumed and gathered in a bag. This machine permits precise cleaning within seconds. On other hand, single-color direct flocking numerous tools of multi-color flocking and flock transfers are to be preferred.
Methods of Multi-Color Flocking
The methods are mentioned as below:
• Multiple flocking
• Cover-up flocking
• Iris flock
• Flock-on-flock
• MC flocking.
Multiple Flocking
The entire working process is done repeatedly in this method, i.e. the first color is flocked, dried, and washed. And the garment is put on the palette again, and the next color is flocked, etc. Registration cane achieved merely to a certain extent as the fabrics are flexible. Hence this method is useful only for designs where exact registration is not needed. It is very labor-intensive; hence the cost for three-color flocking is three times as much as for single-color products.
Cover-Up Method
In this process the adhesive is used at once for the complete design. After that the applied parts of the design which are to be flocked in the second or third color are enclosed with paper or cardboard stencils. Simply the remain part of the design is flocked with the first color. After that another part of the design is uncovered before flocking the next color. This process is more economical than multiple flocking, but here, too, the range of appropriate designs is very less. If a design appears with closest colors, contours between the colors will not be darker. Various colors in a design should if possible be set in a distance of about 2 - 3 cm. The benefit of this process is that adhesive application, drying and cleaning have to be functions only once, creating the method very economical.
Iris Flock
The adhesive is layered at in one process over the whole design. Various flock colors are placed into the flock applicator, divided by dividing walls. All colors are flocked in single operation creating good-looking moves from one color to another. With some concepts, appealing designs like different blues for a sky, or a sunset atmosphere by using yellow, red and navy blue colors are made. The cost of the process is the same as in single color flocking.
Flock-On-Flock
It is similar to the multiple flocking methods; the adhesive is applied, then flock, dry, clean, and apply more adhesive. In this case not next to the first layer, fasten top of it. By these method sharp contours achieved and the double relief character will give special effects. Though, this also is an extremely complicated method, for each color needs the entire procedure: loading the garment on a palette, adhesive application, flocking, drying and cleaning.
MC Flocking
It is a true multi-color flocking process where the design has sharp contours. It stresses intense precision, and hence must be made by machines. At the first stage of a big carousel machine the adhesive is used over the complete design. After that the palette is shifted for the first flock color. Here the first color is flocked with precise registration by a printing screen. The distance between the garment and the flocking screen must be place closest. When applying the 1 mm flock, as is generally completed, the distance should be circa 1.2 to 1.6 mm. If the distance is moreover less, there is the risk that the bottom of the screen becomes soiled by the glue, or that the screen texture shows (of course, this may also be a very interesting side-effect). If the distance is at extreme the sharpness of the contours will be decreased. The carousel remains rotating while flocking color 2, color 3, and color 4. Since the palettes always go after each other(i.e. while the adhesive is applied at the first station, color 1 + 2 get flocked at station 2 + 3, etc.) the fabrication speed is approximately as fast as in single-color flocking. In this process the outlay cost for the machine and for a number of flocking screens per design will be greater. By this method halftone MC flock has been made, which shows that with the four basic colors all
colors can remake. This process stresses maximum precision in both from the machine and in the from the machine workers. MC flocking covers a broad field of uses in making the door mats. In Western Europe many million door mats are made and sold every year. They apply 2 mm flock and exclusive screens to permit the uses of a lot more adhesive, due to the coarse surface, and for a higher abrasion resistance.
Transfer Flock
In this process the idea is to iron flocked logos on a fabric piece and is similar to transfer printing. There are many possibilities to do the same. The easy form is to flock hot-melt foils and punch out letters or logos which are afterward ironed onto the fabric. Though this process needs costly punching tools, only larger batches of a logo can be done. The process is generally applied for the manufacturing of letters, digits and firms’ logos.
Reverse Method, single color
In this process a special transfer flock paper is used, where the flock is fixed in a simply detachable way. A mirror image of the design is made with the adhesive. After that hot-melt powder is applied over the adhesive when it is wet. After it becomes dry, the design is overturned, i.e. it is put on the fabric with its hotmelt powder side onto the fabric and is afterward ironed on. The hot-melt powder mixes with the fabric, and in the part where the adhesive was imprinted the flock releases from the mover material. By this method design is made on the fabric with the accurate side. Particularly for small designs this method use cost effective tool than direct flocking, even if the superiority generally is not as precise. A normal screen printing business only needs a screen printer (which they already have anyway), a dryer and a transfer cleaning machine to make flock transfers are the benefits. For utilization of the relocation on the fabric (cut-piece fabric or finished garment) it just needs a transfer press without any supplementary needs.
Reverse Method, multicolor
This process is similar to the reverse method, single color but here need a transfer paper of simple white one. In this process, first the colors of the design are embossed, and then the adhesive with the hot-melt powder is applied. It is essential that the printing ink actually enters in to the flock. Delicate grayness on the finished transfer will make deprived quality.
LEXTRA Transfers
LEXTRA Transfers is multicolor flocking methods, it is a blend of MC flocking and transfers. The flock is used on the transfer paper, or on the mover foil, not selected singles colored, but the whole design as mirror image. Pursued by flocking and dry-in, adhesive and hot-melt powder is used. This technology carries the nearly all brilliant colors and very dark contours, as, of course, a foil is yet superior, capable for MC flocking than a fabric.
Evaluation of Transfer Flock and Direct Flocking
After the discussing a variety of process it is time to evaluate the advantages and disadvantages of the various process, granted that only the best materials are applied and effort is carried out carefully. Normally, the quality of direct flocking will to some extent exceed that of transfer flocking, particularly in larger designs.
For indirect flocking more tools and more process phases are needed in against transfer flocking, as here the transfer paper, or the finished transfer, can be procured for application with a transfer press. In direct flocking, the size of the design performs a somewhat less important roll in price calculations, while it is a vital factor in transfer flocking. A transfer 10 x 10 cm costs almost four times as much as a transfer 5 x 5 cm, this obviously proves
that small logos or letterings, particularly if multicolored, are more logically priced. The relative stiffness of the transfer is not as disturbing as in large designs, is another benefit of small transfers. Large club logos, nationalities, or designs of tourist temptations are made by direct flocking. A company that needs to present the entire range to its customers should have both possibilities. In evaluating the quantities of single and multicolor prints, flocking will forever maintain just a small fraction of the market. Its well-designed appearance and good wearing characteristics create flocking better to other technologies, and as the past years have showed, prices are ranging high. As described earlier, this technology doesn’t obtain market shares with low-price merchandise but with better quality. No quality is sufficient that it could not be broken by inappropriate handling. Of course, this also uses to flocked articles. Hence it is suggested to stick washing instructions to flocked garments. Since the fibers are swelling up in the water, their abrasion resistance is low. Constant spinning in the washing machine is rather hard on the fibers.
Hence it is recommended to turning the garments inside out before putting them into the washing machine. By this, there will be no straight away grazing of the fibers whilst the washing effect stays as it is. Relevant washing guidance can save you a lot of effort. Flocking is not only used on textiles, T-shirts and sportswear, but it is applied in all fields of surface treatment, and, above all, for many technical applications.

T Shirt Evolution

With every generation movie stars have worn them. Rock stars have shredded them. And celebrities have stripped them. Paris anyone? The t-shirt has been the fashion essential for over 70 years and probably another 70 years and more. So how did it get here and what does the future hold?
Origins – Call to Arms in Short Sleeves
The t-shirts humble beginnings can be traced back to the early 1930’s. WWI European soldiers entrenched in mud wore the t-shirt as an undergarment. The advantages of the light cotton underwear were quickly adopted by the US military. By WWII the US Army and Navy had supplied the t-shirt as standard issue. T-shirts at the time were still considered underwear and not worn casually.
1950’s - Cult Movie Bad Boys
With the help of a sweating Brando in the 1951 film "A Streetcar Named Desire", and later a brooding James Dean in "Rebel without a Cause" the t-shirt had moved to mainstream youth culture. By the time Elvis had gyrated, the teenage rebellion seed was planted and along with denim jeans the t-shirt had become the hot fashion statement.
1960’s - From Beatniks to Vietnam
The 60’s were well known for social upheavals and political events. Many subcultures developed from Beatniks, Mods, Rockers to eventually Hippy’s. During the early 60’s The Beatles had ignored the t-shirt opting for their trademark suits. But by the late 60’s the haze of the Hippy generation had created the tie dyed t-shirt. Dunked in several buckets of colourful dyes it became a symbol of the psychedelic era and possibly one of the worst fashion crimes of the century. Other t-shirt styles were born including the ringer, muscle, v-neck and tank t-shirts. The invention of screen printing saw social and political slogans expressed on apparel especially for the anti war sentiments of Vietnam.
1970’s – Your Disco Needs You
Rock emerged beating to death the Hippy’s with their own sandals. The black t-shirt was now standard issue with printed logos of stadium rock Supergroups such as Led Zeppelin, ACDC and Pink Floyd. In the course of the mid 70’s Surf apparel started appearing. Niche surfing brands such as Lightning Bolt, Billabong, Rip Curl and Quiksilver would later become big corporations. Athletic giants Adidas, Puma, Reebok and Nike also gained prominence with their branded printed tees, shoes and apparel. The decade was also known for it’s many classic t-shirt motto’s including the Smiley face, "Sh*t Happens" and "I love NY" which would see a revival after 911. Fonzie in the TV sitcom Happy Days paid homage to Brando and Dean 20 years before by reintroducing the blank white tee. In 1977 the Star Wars phenomenon had exploded. Star Wars t-shirts were everywhere for the tween. But for the twenty something’s there was of course Disco. With movies like Saturday Night Fever and Thank God it’s Friday the flared trousers and tight t-shirts became the usual 70’s silhouette.
1980’s - Fashion beep beep
The influence of music had an extreme effect on fashion in the 80’s. The New Romantic movement in the early 80’s had passed on the simple tee, opting for a more extravagant look. Remember Flock of Seagulls? On the opposite spectrum the Punk movement was in full flight with black ripped up tees, Doc Marten boots, piercing and lots and lots of hair gel.
By the mid 80’s the Japanese fashion influence had caught on. Designers Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake had reinvented the t-shirt to a large oversized kimono style cut. Katherine Hamnett in 1984 took it even further with the notable "Choose Life" print which was immediately embraced by Wham! in their video "Wake Me Up Before you Go Go". Not long after Frankie said "Relax" and The Smiths said "Meat is Murder" regurgitating the political t-shirt. From the oversized tee stemmed the woman’s "t-shirt dress" which developed into neon and day glow colours.
Springsteen brought the jeans and a t-shirt back to basics with rolled up macho sleeves during his Born in the USA phase. For the MTV generation Armani took the t-shirt to high fashion wearing the tee underneath
a suit jacket. Of course the suit jacket sleeves were rolled up ala Crocket and Tubbs Miami Vice style (parodied exceptionally in that Friends episode).
1990’s – Come As You Are
Surf tees saw a rebirth pioneered by new brands Stussy and Mossimo. Also adopted by Skaters long sleeve t-shirts became ever more popular. The Hypercolor t-shirt fad where the fabric changed colour with heat was very popular. Entertainingly if the wearer worked up a sweat big unsightly patches of colour change would occur around the armpits.
Again the influence of music came back into play. Hip Hop proved it wasn’t a phase adopting at first Adidas as a brand. Later various Rap specific brands emerged such as Sean John and Phat Farm. Dance, Trance and DJing gained prominence and tighter and sleeveless t-shirts worn with baggy pants become the mode. Grunge anti-fashion also took the tee in another direction with a dark worn appearance.
21st Century Brand Child
According to branding experts Al and Laura Ries in the book "The Origin of Brands", as a product category evolves the category then diverges further into more categories. Like a tree some branches may whither and die while others will further grow and diverge again. This is probably best explained with the invention of the TV. The TV has diverged from the humble B&W television to many other categories. We now have CRT, Plasma, LCD, HDTV, Rear Projection, portable and widescreen.
There is no doubt that divergence has affected the t-shirt. The shape of the t-shirt itself has diverged to anywhere from tight, regular, hip hop loose to baby tee. With the advent of the Internet we’ve seen a boom in smaller t-shirt label startups. Now there are so many categories we are almost overwhelmed for choice.

The Future
So which category branches will whither and die and which will survive to the next decade? Would you rather look like Eminem, Kelly Slater or Tony Hawks? And what is a t-shirt anyhow? Is it a simple apparel design with a coloured screen printed artwork featuring a hobby, sport, band or affluence that you may identify with? Or is it a product branded, marketed and directly mass produced for your particular demographic? Either way T-shirts have become a billion dollar industry.
What next for the now not so humble tee? We’re seeing 21st century fibres like Gortex, Merino wool and Lycra blends being used. As for logos some growing trends seem to be the Video Game t-shirts, Internet t-shirts and Poker t-shirts. Will these be the next surf or skate brands? Quite possibly. Will others develop out of our favourite past times? Could there even be a Sudoku brand, a MySpace brand, Porn brand, or an iPod brand of t-shirts? Perhaps design your own the new black? One thing is certain; history has shown us that there will be even more diversification far into the next decades. The power of the t-shirt has never been greater. Awesome!

POLO Shirts

Polo shirts originate from France as tennis wear and later adopted by the English as a wear for the sport polo hence the name polo shirt. The influence of the Cool Biz is just uplifting the sales. Neckties had been the most popular item for Father’s Day gifts but with the Cool Biz and its negative influence on neckties polo shirts and dress shirts are items many department stores and shops are placing as the main item.
Polo shirts have always been a standard item for the summer in many stores. The simplicity of the item allows for alterations and creativity and produce original items. This year with the preppy style trend, Cool Biz, and the marine trend, polo shirts are everywhere.
The trend is not so much present in the women’s market as it is in the men’s. It has been adopted by men of many age levels and of different styles which explains the abundant choices in colors, designs, details, shapes, and styles.
Another item that was popular among the young boys in the sexy style was the skippers. They were slimmer in terms of style and fit and details like lame, gold stitching, and more elegant in materials and silhouette. Many retailers replied from spring to early summer that polo shirts and skippers were their best selling items this year, and still are. Among polo shirts and skippers, border striped polo’s stood out among others. Still, polo shirts are always a popular item in summer and this is not only limited to Japan. The marine trend was also prevalent in many countries, so what characterizes the Japanese fashion scene? Besides the more feminine details, and numerous different designs and styles, the comparatively cold spring has up lifted the trend of layering with polo shirts. This characteristic is a recurring trend with the Japanese, ignited with the need and want of originality in whatever they wear.
The combinations in layering came in 3 patterns:
• polo on polo
• polo on shirts
• polo on long sleeve t-shirts
And these patterns broke down into many other patterns such as floral printed shirts under polo’s, polo on t-shirts with hoods, bordered polo’s on polo, and the list goes on. Stores displayed their polo’s and skippers layered which evidently helped boost sales of not only polo’s but shirts as casual shirts are named as being the 2nd best selling item by many. A few store carried polo shirts that had double collars that look as though worn layered but is actually a normal polo. Japan’s fashion market as the polo trend exemplifies, is a market that is stimulated by stores and the brands, but by individual consumers simultaneously. This as a result makes each trend very dynamic and thereby making Japan’s fashion scene one of the most focused market these days. Polo shirts originate from France as tennis wear and later adopted by the English as a wear for the sport polo hence the name polo shirt.
The influence of the Cool Biz is just uplifting the sales. Neckties had been the most popular item for Father’s Day gifts but with the Cool Biz and its negative influence on neckties polo shirts and dress shirts are items many department stores and shops are placing as the main item.

Fashion Garments

Fashion Garments